CLIMATE HISTORY AND GEOLOGY


THE EVOLUTION OF GLACIAL LAKE GREAT FALLS
AND THE FORMATION OF THE SHONKIN SAG

G.T. Davidson, PhD.

The Shonkin Sag in central Montana is one of the most spectacular remnants of the Ice Ages in North America.  This is a gigantic channel excavated by the Missouri River at a time when its path toward the north was blocked by ice.  There are only a few insignificant streams running in the Sag today, but at one time it must have carried a torrent of water, full almost to its brim.  The principal evidence for a flood of water is in the "U" shape cross section, a shape that is typcal of both overflow channels and glacial troughs.  The meandering form of the Sag confirms that it is not a glacial trough.

Overview of Sag

The Shonkin Sag is a lonely place today.  It winds along the northern edge of the Highwood Mountains as a huge, barren valley, with several large saline lakes along its reaches—one of which is seen in the photograph.  It is generally 1.3 to 1.6 miles across (2.1 to 2.6 km) and about 300 ft deep (91 m).  At the location of the photograph, the valley is 1.5 mi across (2.4 km) and 309 ft deep (94 m).  The total length, from the town of Highwood to where it meets the valley of Arrow Creek is nearly 55 miles (88 km).  Below the point where it meets Shonkin Creek (Point C in the map below) it runs nearly level for 35 miles (55 km), which is somewhat surprising considering the trememous velocity of the water that must have excavated this deep trough.  The Arrow Creek Valley is an extension of the channel which eventually meets the present-day course of the Missouri River.  That valley shows extensive erosion and modification since the Ice Ages.

Not long ago a railway ran along a portion of the Sag.  The tiny town of Montague was located on the railway.  That railway was never very prosperous - a branch line of the Milwaukee, St. Paul, and Pacific, which dead-ended in the city of Great Falls, about 30 miles away.  The tracks are gone from the Sag.  What is left of the railway is a minor, independent line which ends in the town of Geraldine, near the Sag.  The town of Montague has become a picturesque ghost town.

Apart from the lakes and other curiosities, what most strike the visitor are the huge cliffs up to 570 ft high (173 m) along the Sag.  Some parts of the Sag have been worn away by erosion in the 15,000 years since the Ice Ae glaciers departed.  But in some places the walls still stand 300 or more feet (91 m) high.  The map indicates with a thin green line where the valley walls still stand, winding along the north edge of the Highwood Mountains.

Local Map

Present-day streams and rivers are indicated by blue lines; the black lines are roads which are passable in dry weather.  Some of the roads are not recommended in wet weather.

Actually there are several distinct parts of the Sag, indicated by the letters A – G on the map.  The topography in each differs in subtle ways that may be important to an understanding of the formation of the Sag.  Advancing downstream we find:

A-B:  5.14 mi (8.3 km)
A relatively straight section with no breaks in the walls nor small streams entering from the side.  The elevations of the floor are 3380 – 3470 ft (1030 – 1058 m) above sea level, and the walls are about 250 ft (76 m) high.

B-C:  8.65 mi (13.9 km)
A relatively steeply descending section with elevations ranging from 3430 ft (1045 m) at the western end to 3125 ft (953 m) at the eastern end.  The descent is very abrupt for a large, straight river, averaging as much as 30 ft/mi (0.57 %).  The sides of the Sag here are rather low and irregular.

C-D:  33.77 mi (54.3 km)
The main body of the Sag, with a relatively level floor at elevations of 3100 – 3200 ft (945 – 975 m).  Some parts of the floor have clearly experienced differential erosion, but the channel would seem quite flat to anyone traveling along its length.  The channel is quite sinous; which may be due to deeper structures rather than ordinary meanders.  The channel cuts through some rather hard rocks; at one place it bisects a prominent laccolith.  Most of the large, shallow lakes lie in this section.

The secondary channel running northward from point C is not generally considered part of the Sag.  Its sides are relatively low and gentle, and its shape is more like that of most of the other minor valleys in the region.  It is now occupied by the small stream, Shonkin Creek, that flows northward from the Highwood Mountains to join the Missouri.

D-E:  9.07 mi (14.6 km)
A broad, nearly straight section, connecting the valleys of Flat Creek (which runs toward the north) and Arrow Creek (which runs in a generally northeasterly direction).  Elevations are 2970 – 3150 ft (905 – 960 m).

F-G:  7.8 mi (12.6 km)
An isolation section, lying well above most of the Sag at elevations as high as 3698 ft (1127 m).  Along this section is a spectactular dry fall (at the west end of the long, narrow lake), with a drop of more than 250 ft (76 m) to the lake bottom.  At the low end of this channel it runs into the main channel (C-D)

See another map, showing the topography and the stream channels connected to the Shonking Sag.


Take a virtual field trip exploring the Shonkin Sag





THE STANDARD EXPLANATION

The standard explanation is that the Shonkin Sag was created by the catastrophic drainage of a huge periglacial lake, dammed up during the ice ages by the great ice sheets.  At some time the glaciers advanced to foot of the Highwood Mountains, thereby blocking the Missouri and other rivers flowing into the lake from the southwest.  When the ice began to melt, Lake Great Falls rapidly rose to a point where it could spill over the ridge at at the foot of the glacier.  The flow quickly eroded part of the glacier, and in one great swoosh cut a drainage channel toward the east. 

Undoubtedly parts of that story are plausible, and probably account for some chapters in the history of the Shonkin Sag.  There is much evidence for the existence of Lake Great Falls, including at least two shorelines at elevations of 3500 – 3600 ft (1067 – 1097 m) and 3800 – 3900 ft (1158 – 1189 m).  These shorelines are consistent with two spillway channels, A-B, and F-G.  Apparently F-G corresponds to an early episode, and the westward extension of that channel can be faintly traced on the slope above A-B.  The "gigantic spillway" picture is consistent with the formation of sections A-B, B-C, and F-G; but there are several problems in accounting for the remainder of the Sag:





AN ALTERNATIVE EXPLANATION
FOR THE FORMATION OF THE SHONKIN SAG

A more complete explanation for the Shonkin Sag is that it was formed over immensely long periods of glaciation, probably during at least several Ice Ages.  It was formed not by a single violent event, but in a much more complex sequence of events, including diversion of the flow of the Missouri river for most of the duration of the Ice Ages.  For the past million years the Earth has spent most of the time locked in ice; so there was sufficient time for a river to cut a channel around the ice—a channel that could have been scoured and enlarged by several violent overflow events.

Rather than a temporary, short-lived channel, the Shonkin Sag may have been the preferred channel for the Missouri River for immensely long times.  That it looks so fresh today, unlike the other valleys of the Missouri, is because it was never eroded by glaciers.

The composition of the rocks of the Highwood Mountains is very important to the creation of the Shonkin Sag.  Three minor mountain ranges in north-central Montana were formed as massive intrusions of relatively rare Shonkinite.  First were the Bears Paw Mountains, then the Highwood Mountains, and finally the Adel Mountains.  The presence of Shonkinite is thought to be related to the occurence of these volcanic intrusions far from a plate boundary or known hot spot.  Shonkinite is similar to Basalt, except that it is anomalously rich in Potassium.  Basalt is usually found near plate boundaries, hot spots, or fissure eruptions. 

The Shonkinite mountains were formed several million years ago, largely through the intrusion of laccoliths.  They probably looked rather like the more recent laccolithic Henry Mountains of eastern Utah.  They have been worn down rather quickly, so that the rock exposures are mostly just isolated ridges protruding from hills of rubble.  Shonkinite is generally black, but weathers quickly to a dark red.  A feature that may have been critical to the formation of the Shonkin Sag is that Shonkinite is often extremely friable; it can sometimes be broken in the hand.  Almost any impact, whether by ice, running water, or suspended boulders, can readily break off fragments from the exposed vertical faces.

The alternate model for the formation of the Shonkin Sag involves several distinct steps:

  1. A pre-glacial stage in which the Missouri River flowed across the northern part of Montana, in a valley now occupied by the Milk River.  The ancestral Missouri was prevented from flowing in its present course by a ridge running between the Judith Mountains and the Bears Paw Mountains.

  2. A period of gradual glacial advance which blocked the Missouri River, and caused a lake to rise behind the ice dam.  Eventually the lake began to overflow the ridge to the east.  The water would have quickly breached the ridge and begun to drain the lake; probably establishing the present course of the Missouri through the Missouri Breaks.

  3. Further glacial advance which cut off off the previous overflow channel. Despite the greatly reduced flow of the Missouri River, the lake may have risen further until it breached the divide through which the Shonkin Sag passes.  The river must have been diverted through the Sag for thousands of years in order to create the huge present channel.

  4. Filling of Lake Great Falls as the ice front reached the foot of the Highwood Mountains.  This cut off the drainage, allowing the lake to rise another 500 to 800 feet.  The inflow from rivers was probably much reduced, so the lake may not have filled completely until the ice began to melt.  The vast lake that formed is now known as Lake Great Falls.  Eventually the lake began to spill over a ridge at the front of the ice.

    The damming of the river to form Lake Great Falls was not a necessary consequence of the ice advance.  The ice could have retreated before this happened, leaving the Shonkin Sag as a relatively young, V-shaped valley.

  5. Catastrophic drainage of Lake Great Falls as the spillway channel near the town of Highwood was rapidly eroded and the water again reached the lower part of the Shonkin Sag.  The gigantic flow of water may have filled the Shonkin Sag almost to the brim, scouring the sides and creating the present-day U-shaped valley.  Any ice blocking the Sag would have been swept away.

  6. Establishment of new Missouri channel as the ice rapidly retreated and the lake finally disappeard.  The rocks and soils along the present course of the Missouri are relatively soft, so eventually the river would have been diverted away from the Shonkin Sag.  Increased flow from melting ice deepened the present Missouri channel sufficiently that it became the preferred channel.

  7. After the Ice Age in which there were minor adjustments of streams, and they cut deeply into the present channels.

The first step: the pre-glacial landscape


Site Map



This web site has been created and maintained by Gerald Davidson, PhD.
http://www.onemain.com/~gdavids/index.htm.
Most recent revision March 2010

Please send comments, suggestions, and corrections to
Gerald Davidson.
P.O. Box 1466
Red Lodge, MT 59068